For the reason that rise of streaming, music has been “liquid” as a result of it’s pervasive, universally accessible and rapidly consumed. However maybe it has at all times been. Few different creative varieties have the identical skill to work together in such a harmonious and, certainly, fluid means with different inventive disciplines, enhancing their expression.
Whereas for some folks music is a nice soundtrack, for others it’s rather more. It’s the very supply of their creativity. The latter is definitely the case of Marco De Vincenzo, 45 years previous, of Sicilian origin, and since final 12 months inventive director of one of many nice Italian vogue manufacturers, Etro.
For De Vincenzo, inspiration begins and is then supported by a musical suggestion. Music is the basic ingredient of the character of a group, in addition to the success of a vogue present.
With the newest Milan Style Week, the inventive director went even additional, having a younger rising band, Santamarea (additionally Sicilian), create a music for the Etro runway. “Acqua Bagnami” offered the proper sonic extension to the traces and colours of Etro’s “Nowhere” assortment, offered on Sept. 20 in Milan.
After the hassle of Style Week, Billboard Italy reached out to De Vincenzo to speak concerning the tight connection between music and magnificence that defines his work.
You lately curated Spotify’s “Runway” playlist. What sort of music evokes your inventive work?
I found many songs that make up my playlists on the radio. As quickly as I hear one thing I like, I put it aside. In any other case, I’ll depend on Spotify’s options, doing a form of scouting. My style may very well be outlined as “indie”, however I’ve playlists of assorted genres. There isn’t a method. I’m a “headphones” particular person: I like listening to music to lose contact with the encircling world. I want the two-way relationship with music.
You mentioned, “Music is greater than only a easy ingredient of the inventive course of: It’s the basis of all of it.” Might you clarify how?
Once I begin a group, I’m open to any risk. Music defines a way of thinking and subsequently leads me to make selections. Some collections had been unhappy or joyful due to the second I used to be going via and that the music supported. I’ve by no means made a group that didn’t have vital music behind it. Once I select the music for my vogue reveals I by no means wish to depend on DJs who don’t know my private style. I’ve at all times surrounded myself with associates who knew me, till the expertise with Santamarea, which was the primary time with an unreleased music created particularly for the event.
As a model, Etro has at all times been impressed by the concept of journey, by influences from the world and different cultures. The newest assortment can be based mostly on the idea of travelling, however with creativeness. That is precisely what music stimulates, isn’t it?
That’s why it’s an ingredient. If there’s a good technique to journey non-physically, it’s by listening to music. The gathering that we offered in Milan is named “Nowhere” because of this, as a result of the creativeness takes you to locations you don’t know. The extra you let your self go to this unknown move, the extra fascinating the result’s, since you haven’t put boundaries on it.
How vital is the musical element for the success of a present like a runway?
It’s crucial. When the music just isn’t good, the present will get penalized. Music manages to attach all components. The explanation for the success of this assortment is partly because of the ambiance that the music created. This hasn’t at all times occurred. Typically I regretted the alternatives I made as a result of they weren’t constant. These are errors I realized from. Due to dwell streaming, runways are now not a present for the elite and, if the music is incorrect, you inform the incorrect story. Pictures and music change into one and have the identical significance.
Regardless of its cosmopolitan influences, Etro is without doubt one of the symbols of Italian fashion. Do you additionally wish to convey an concept of Italianness in your work? Out of your perspective, how are Italian designers thought of on the earth at present?
I at all times bear in mind what a pal of mine used to inform me after my vogue reveals: “You’re so Italian,” most likely which means our predilection for decorum, for maximalism. However that occurred ten or fifteen years in the past. Immediately, Italianness has extra to do with craftsmanship, with the entire artisanal provide chain, which is a treasure to be protected. As for the style, it’s all very blended. I’m cautious to go searching rather a lot, to not make Italianness an extreme take a look at the previous. Immediately, “Made in Italy” is nothing however a voice of world vogue. Fortunately there are vogue weeks which are flourishing world wide along with the 4 huge ones. They’ve native designers who produce overseas and have a robust perspective. Provided that we deliver loads of our tradition into our work, clearly if you’re Italian you have got an method that can’t resemble that of somebody who grew up in Camden City in London. I used to be born in Sicily and moved to Rome at 18. My expertise is fully Italian, however I at all times maintain an open door to look elsewhere. To reply the second query, I believe that at present Italian designers have some extra difficulties than foreigners as a result of Italy is a nation that depends closely on the previous. Younger Italian designers discover themselves a bit swallowed up by the large names. Immediately there’s an entire scene of proficient younger designers who deserve more room. The Italian trade ought to speak in confidence to new issues.
Etro vogue present at Milan Style Week.
Courtesy of Etro